So you’ve explored the Golden Circle, you’ve driven to the South Coast and you’ve taken in the Reykjanes Peninsula? And now you’re wondering where your next Iceland adventure could be? Consider the incredible and remote Central Highlands. This rugged and unforgiving landscape is deep in the heart of Iceland, and is packed with glaciers, active volcanoes, wild geothermal activity and some of Iceland’s tallest mountains. Heading into Iceland’s Highlands is perfect for those seeking a true adventure – and one of the remote and most untouched areas left on the continent.
I’ve taken three trips now into Iceland’s Highlands – each absolutely incredible. I’ve mostly visited for winter adventures, meaning incredible snow and blizzard conditions. Each time, I’ve stayed at the exceptional Highland Base, a unique mountain hotel that makes this Icelandic adventure just that bit more luxurious. So here’s my guide to the Highlands, as well as staying at Highland Base.
A Guide to the Highlands in Iceland
Location
The Highlands occupy a central part of Iceland and as such, are accessible from around the country. The main way into the Highlands is on Route 35 from Selfoss, down closer to Reykjavik. But as the mountains are so challenging to traverse, there are few routes criss-crossing this region. In fact, visiting in snowy conditions means you can’t even see the roads and you would need to access in a 4×4 super jeep driven by a professional!
When to Visit
Deciding when to visit the Central Highlands depends on the kinds of activity you want to do. In the summer months, you can even camp and can spend long sunny days hiking, running and mountain biking.
If you visit in winter, you can cross-country ski, snowshoe, hike, buggy ride and take on the glaciers on a snowmobile.
The experiences between winter and summer are vastly different.
How to Visit
If you visit the Highlands in the winter, as mentioned above, you will need to jump in a 4×4 superjeep to access the mountains and this needs to driven by a professional. Therefore, visiting in the winter months means joins joining a tour, or arranging your transport through Highland Base, for example. Winter will always be a more expensive time to visit the Highlands.
If you visit in the summer, the roads are well maintained (and the signposts are not buried!), meaning that you can drive up safely in your own vehicle. In the summer, you can camp in your own tent in the mountains, or stay in accommodation like an A-framed hut.
There are no towns, facilities or shops in the Highlands, so if you visit in the summer months, you need to be completely self-sufficient for your trip. If you’re staying at Highland Base, they receive regular supplies thoughout the week (by superjeep!) so the guests are extremely well-fed.
Tours
If you fancy going on a day trip into Iceland’s Highlands from Reykjavík, then definitely arrange this beforehand.
I’ve popped a few tour ideas here:
- From Reykjavik: Kerlingarfjöll Hiking Day Tour (from USD 210/£160 per person)
- From Reykjavík: Landmannalaugar Super Jeep Day Tour (from USD 266/£203 per person)
- Kerlingafjöll: Exclusive 4×4 Highland Expedition (from USD 565/£430 per person)
- Kerlingarfjöll: Highland Baths Admission (from USD 48/£36 per person)
Staying at Highland Base
Overview
Highland Base is located with an area called Kerlingarfjöll, deep in the Central Highlands. This area is a true wilderness, with centuries-old tales of trolls, fairies and giants. Kerlingarfjöll has long been popular with Icelanders, and since the 1930s it was a popular located to learn to ski. In fact, the original building of Highland Base once served as a basic hotel for groups and students coming for year-round skiing school. However, in 2020, the ski school ceased operations due to the receding glacier and unreliable snow forecasts. The main building then became a base camp for mountaineers and hikers, for a couple of years before being transformed into the incredible Highland Base in 2022. The company behind Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon owns and runs Highland Base, as well as its beautiful sister hotel The Retreat at Blue Lagoon.
First impressions
Arriving at Highland Base is half the adventure. Having stayed during the winter months, climbing up into the 4×4 superjeep just sets the tone for the next few days.
The journey in the summer takes around 3.5 hours if the conditions are great and there is no snow. If there has been heavy snowfall, it can honestly take anywhere from 5 to 8 hours. The 4×4 superjeep can take on any terrain and driving through icy blue rivers is really quite something.
Upon arriving at Highland Base, the most overwhelming feeling is of complete warmth and comfort. How a lodge manages to be so cosy and warm in such a remote location is quite something. The staff hurry out to meet you in their huge warm coats before taking you in to the main restaurant area. Chances are, a morning departure from civilisation means you’ll arrive mid-afternoon at Highland Base, which might mean waffles and hot chocolate is being served!
The room
There are four accommodation types at Highland Base, which range from its riverside campsite, the A-Frame huts, the main hotel and the luxurious lodges. In the main hotel, there are newer deluxe rooms and two suites situated within its more recently built Hamar wing. The Aldan wing is the reimagined older building.
I’ve given an appox outline of costs here:
- Highland Base Lodge – ISK 122,000 per night (USD 964/£731)
- Highland Base Hotel (Suite in Hamar Wing) – ISK 89,000 per night (USD 703/£533)
- Highland Base Hotel (Deluxe room in Hamar Wing) – ISK 83,000 per night (USD 656/£497)
- Highland Base Huts (two person hut) – ISK 37,000 per night (USD 292/£221)
I have only stayed in the Hamar Wing in a Deluxe room. The whole room is wood panelled with a huge panoramic window and seating nook offering the cosiest spot for a nap. There’s plenty of room to hang and store wet and cold clothes too, which is super handy and practical after a day’s adventure.
The bed is dressed with soft linens, and the bathrooms have black ceramic, which is certainly a bit different. I’ve had some of my best night’s sleep in these rooms.
If you upgrade to one of the suits in the Hamar Wing, you’ll enjoy a geothermal hot tub on your private terrace and double the living space.
The Highland Base Lodges are a series of standalone small buildings adjacent to the main hotel building. These are luxurious but rustic private lodges, each with a private living room areas and more living space.
Facilities at Highland Base
Communal areas
Before you know it, Highland Base begins to feel like your home. Alongside the main restaurant area, which is the beating heart of the hotel, there is a super cosy and spacious upstairs living room/lounge area. I’ve spent many a snug afternoon under a blanket in one of the reading nooks watching a blizzard outside.
It’s also where storytelling takes place, or perhaps an unexpected evening with your guide who might coordinate a singsong.
One of the activities I recommend doing which really helps you get to know the staff, but also Iceland is the ‘Taste of Iceland’ experience. You get to try lots of Icelandic delicacies and here the background behind the foodie items – including fermented shark!
Highland Baths
There is no better way to aching limbs or to warm up than to slip into one of the steaming hot geothermal springs at the Highland Baths. Accessed via a tunnel within the hotel building, you have to make a quick dash across the paving before you can immerse yourself in these magical baths. Open from the early hours until late at night, a soothing dip in here could be enjoyed at any time of the day. But its after dark when it becomes truly magical – and if you’re lucky, you might even witness the Aurora Borealis. I’ve even been in the baths whilst it’s being snowing around me – absolutely amazing.
Day guests can actually purchase a pass to enjoy the Highland Baths during the summer, but from October to mid-June, access is only available to those staying.
Facilities at the Highland Baths also include a cold plunge and sauna, as well as cosy, warm changing rooms.
Food and drink
All meals at Highland Base are served in its cosy restaurant area, offering stunning views across the valley. Breakfast is a delicious buffet, and lunch and dinner are served a la carte. Make sure to try the Arctic Char – it’s mouthwatering good!
In the afternoons, Highland Base serves up the most delicious heart-shaped waffles. There is no better way to warm up and look back on the day than with waffles and hot chocolate.
You simply won’t go hungry at Highland Base, the food is delicious and plentiful! If you’re off on a big all day adventure, they can also make you takeaway lunch boxes too.
Staff and service
The staff are fab at Highland Base. They’re a mixture of Icelanders and other Europeans, all with a true sense of adventure. Living out in Kerlingarfjöll is a truly remote and unique experience, so the staff live on-site and come up to the mountains for several months at a time.
Outdoor adventure at Highland Base
As you might have gathered, Highland Base makes the perfect launchpad for a variety of incredible activities. Whilst I haven’t been able to ski on my visits to Kerlingarfjöll yet, I have enjoyed snowmobiling and buggy driving. Tearing across the rugged snowy terrain in the Highlands is up there with some of the most incredible life activities I’ve ever done!
I’ve also joined a couple of different guided all-day winter hike to explore the remote wilderness. Never have I trekked across a landscape like it. One of the hikes in particular really tested my limits, both with heights and endurance – but you can opt for shorter and less strenuous hikes if you prefer. If your hike is private, then you can determine how challenging the route is with your guide beforehand.
There’s also a shorter hike to a geothermal hot spring at the river’s edge. I highly recommend!
In the summer months, it’s easy to plan your own self-guided route.
As part of your stay, a daily activity is normally included. This is typically a hike and normally a lot shorter and more manageable for all abilities. Read more about the hiking adventures in Kerlingarfjöll here, and check out the full range of day tours at Highland Base here.
It’s worth noting that Highland Base stores all the equipment needed for these kinds of activities, and there’s a small store on-site for buying essentials like woolly hats or gloves.
Highland Base Guide
So there’s my guide to staying at the incredible Highland Base in Iceland’s Highlands region. Whether you visit as a day trip from Reykjavík, or head up for a winter adventure, it’s a truly magical mountain destination.
Make sure to factor in a visit to one of Iceland’s amazing geothermal lagoons too. Here are my detailed guides to visiting the famous Blue Lagoon, as well as the Sky Lagoon, both near Reykjavík.
I hope this guide helps in planning your trip to Iceland and visiting its beautiful Highlands region.
Feel free to ask any further questions below if there’s something I haven’t covered.
Disclaimer: My visits to Highland Base in Iceland are a mixture of independent visits paid for by myself, and some have been hosted visits. However, as always, my reviews are entirely honest and my own.
